Malaysia

Malaysia is one of the most underrated destinations in Southeast Asia. While everyone flocks to Thailand and Bali, Malaysia quietly offers better food, cheaper prices, pristine islands, ancient rainforests, and a cultural mix of Malay, Chinese, Indian, and indigenous communities that makes every city feel like three countries stacked on top of each other.

The food is the headline. Kuala Lumpur and Penang are constantly fighting over which city has the best street food in the world, and honestly both of them win. A plate of char kway teow costs $1.50. Nasi lemak (the national breakfast) costs $1. Roti canai with dhal costs $0.80. And these aren’t cheap food stall compromises. This is genuinely world-class food that happens to cost almost nothing.

Beyond the food, Malaysia has some of the oldest rainforests on earth (Taman Negara is 130 million years old), islands with diving that rivals the Maldives at a fraction of the price, tea plantations in cool mountain highlands, and a modern capital with one of the most recognisable skylines in Asia.

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When to go

Malaysia sits near the equator so it’s warm and humid year-round. Temperatures hover between 27-33C (80-91F) everywhere except the highlands. The question isn’t when it’s warm but when it rains least.

The west coast (Kuala Lumpur, Penang, Langkawi) is driest from December to February. The east coast (Perhentian Islands, Tioman, Redang) is best from March to October. The east coast islands largely shut down from November to February due to the northeast monsoon.

Malaysian Borneo (Sabah and Sarawak) is best from March to October. The monsoon brings heavy rain from November to February, though Kota Kinabalu stays relatively dry year-round.

There’s no real off-season for Kuala Lumpur. The city is good any time. Chinese New Year and Hari Raya (end of Ramadan) are festive but book accommodation early as domestic travel spikes.

What it actually costs

Malaysia is genuinely cheap. One of the best value countries in Asia for the quality you get. All prices in USD.

Budget ($20-40 USD/day per person) Hostels or budget guesthouses ($5-12/night), hawker food for every meal ($1-3/meal), local buses and trains ($0.50-5), free temples and city walking. You can eat incredibly well on a tiny budget in Malaysia.

Mid-range ($40-100 USD/day per person) Hotel ($25-60/night for a double), mix of hawker food and restaurant meals ($5-10), Grab rides ($1-5), domestic flights ($15-40 one-way), some paid activities. Very comfortable at this level.

Comfortable ($100-200+ USD/day per person) Resort on Langkawi or the east coast islands ($70-150/night), fine dining, private tours, diving packages ($60-100 for 2 dives), spa treatments.

Domestic flights are cheap. AirAsia flies between almost every city for $15-40 one-way if booked 2-3 weeks ahead. Kuala Lumpur to Penang is $15-25. KL to Kota Kinabalu (Borneo) is $30-50. These are the easiest budget flights in Southeast Asia.

International flights to KL from within Asia are very cheap ($50-150 return from most regional hubs). From Europe $350-600. From North America $500-900. From Oceania $200-400. KLIA is a major AirAsia hub with connections everywhere.

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Where to go

Kuala Lumpur (2-3 days). The Petronas Towers are the obvious landmark but the real KL is in the food. Jalan Alor is a hawker street that comes alive at night with hundreds of stalls. Chinatown (Petaling Street) and Little India are chaotic and delicious. Batu Caves (a Hindu temple inside a limestone cave, 272 steps up) is a half-day trip from the city centre. The KLCC park beneath the Petronas Towers is a surprisingly peaceful green space in the middle of the city.

Penang (3-4 days). George Town is a UNESCO World Heritage site and the food capital of Malaysia (many argue the food capital of the world). The street art trail through the old town is excellent. Hawker stalls line every street. Char kway teow, laksa, cendol, and hokkien mee are all at their best here. Outside George Town, Penang Hill has panoramic views and cooler temperatures, and the Penang National Park has hiking trails and Monkey Beach.

Langkawi (3-4 days). A duty-free island off the northwest coast. The SkyCab cable car and SkyBridge are the main attractions (spectacular views from 700m up). The beaches are decent (Pantai Cenang is the main strip), island hopping tours visit smaller islands with better beaches, and the duty-free status means cheap alcohol ($5 for a bottle of wine). It’s more resort-oriented than backpacker, but prices are still reasonable.

Cameron Highlands (2 days). Tea plantations, strawberry farms, and cool mountain air at 1,500m altitude. The BOH Tea Plantation has free tours and a cafe with views over rolling green hills. Good for a break from the heat and humidity of the lowlands. Accessible by bus from KL (4 hours) or Penang.

Perhentian Islands (3-4 days). Two islands off the northeast coast with some of the best snorkelling and diving in Malaysia. Coral reefs directly off the beach, sea turtles, reef sharks, and crystal water. Basic beach huts start at $15/night. Only accessible March to October when the seas are calm.

Tioman Island (3-4 days). Another east coast island with excellent diving and snorkelling. Less developed than the Perhentians and cheaper. The Juara side of the island is quiet with a beautiful long beach. Ferry from Mersing on the mainland.

Malaysian Borneo – Sabah (5-7 days). Kota Kinabalu is the gateway city. Mount Kinabalu is the highest peak in Southeast Asia and climbable in 2 days (permit required, book well ahead, $150-200 including guide and accommodation). The Sepilok Orangutan Rehabilitation Centre is where you can see semi-wild orangutans up close. The Kinabatangan River has wildlife cruises with proboscis monkeys, hornbills, and pygmy elephants. And Sipadan Island is consistently rated one of the top 5 dive sites in the world (limited daily permits, book months ahead).

Malaysian Borneo – Sarawak (3-5 days). Kuching is one of the most charming small cities in Southeast Asia. The Sarawak Cultural Village showcases indigenous Dayak culture. Bako National Park has proboscis monkeys, hiking trails, and beaches accessible by boat from Kuching. The Iban longhouses along the Batang Ai river offer cultural homestay experiences.

What to skip

Genting Highlands. It’s a casino resort on a mountaintop. If you’re not there to gamble, there’s nothing worth the trip. The theme parks are mediocre and the whole place feels like a shopping mall at altitude.

KL Tower if you’re already doing the Petronas Towers. It’s the same view from a slightly different angle. One observation deck is enough.

Generic west coast beaches when the east coast is available. The beaches on the west coast (Port Dickson, etc.) are average by Southeast Asian standards. The east coast islands (Perhentian, Tioman, Redang) are in a completely different league.

Eating at shopping mall food courts when hawker centres exist. Mall food courts are fine but hawker centres are cheaper, more authentic, and the food is better. Every neighbourhood has one.

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Must-do experiences

Eat everything in Penang. Get the George Town Heritage Food Trail map and systematically eat your way through it. Char kway teow at Lorong Selamat. Asam laksa at Air Itam market. Cendol at Penang Road. Nasi kandar at any of the original shops. Budget $10 for a day of the best food you’ve ever had.

Eat at Jalan Alor in KL at night. The most famous hawker street in Kuala Lumpur. Hundreds of stalls and plastic-chair restaurants. Go hungry, walk the strip, eat whatever looks good. Satay, grilled stingray, roast duck, durian (if you dare). $5-10 will stuff you.

Climb Batu Caves. 272 steps up to a Hindu temple inside a massive limestone cave. Free entry. The golden Murugan statue at the base is 43m tall. Go early morning to beat the heat. Watch out for the monkeys, they steal food and shiny things.

Snorkel with turtles at the Perhentian Islands. Green and hawksbill turtles are common off both islands. You can see them from the beach in some spots. Snorkelling trips cost $10-15 for a half day and cover 3-4 spots including Turtle Bay.

See orangutans at Sepilok in Borneo. The rehabilitation centre has feeding platforms where semi-wild orangutans come in from the forest twice a day (10am and 3pm). $10 entry. One of the most reliable places in the world to see orangutans in a natural setting.

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Practical tips

The currency is the Malaysian Ringgit (MYR). $1 USD is roughly 4.5 MYR. Cards are accepted at hotels, restaurants, and shops. Hawker stalls, markets, and small shops are cash-only. ATMs everywhere.

Most Western passport holders get 90 days visa-free on arrival.

Grab is the local ride-hailing app (like Uber) and works in every city. Cheaper and safer than regular taxis. Use it for everything.

Malaysia is a Muslim-majority country but very multicultural and tolerant. Dress modestly when visiting mosques (cover shoulders and knees, women should cover hair). Shorts and t-shirts are fine everywhere else.

The food can be spicy, especially Malay and Indian dishes. Chinese hawker food is generally milder. Ask for “kurang pedas” (less spicy) if needed.

Tap water is safe in KL and most cities but most people drink filtered or bottled out of preference. Bottled water costs $0.30.

Buy a local SIM at the airport. Hotlink, Digi, and Celcom all offer tourist SIMs with data for $5-10. Coverage is excellent in cities and towns, patchy in deep jungle and remote islands.

The domestic bus network is extensive and cheap. Buses between major cities cost $5-15 and are comfortable air-conditioned coaches. Book on redbus.my or busonlineticket.com.

Tipping is not expected or customary in Malaysia.

Planning your trip

1 week west coast highlights: Kuala Lumpur (3 nights), fly to Penang (3 nights), Langkawi (1 night, or extend)

2 weeks peninsula and islands: KL (2), Cameron Highlands (2), Penang (3), Langkawi (2), east coast ferry to Perhentian or Tioman Islands (4)

2 weeks including Borneo: KL (2), Penang (3), fly to Kota Kinabalu (3, Mount Kinabalu or Sepilok/Kinabatangan), Semporna/Sipadan diving (3), fly back to KL (1)

3 weeks the full experience: KL (3), Cameron Highlands (2), Penang (3), Perhentian Islands (3), fly to Kuching/Sarawak (3), fly to Kota Kinabalu/Sabah (4), fly home

Book your trip

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More destinations: For similar food-focused travel at similar prices, see our Vietnam or Thailand guides. For a more developed Asian city experience, check out Singapore (2 hours from KL by bus). For island alternatives, see Bali or Fiji.