Vietnam

Why Vietnam

Vietnam has the best street food in Southeast Asia. That is not an opinion, it is the hill most travellers who have been there will die on. The country also happens to have dramatic landscapes that shift from limestone karsts to terraced mountains to white sand coastline, all connected by cheap domestic flights and an overnight train system that actually works. It is one of the most affordable countries in the region, and the pace of change over the last decade means the Vietnam you visit today looks nothing like what guidebooks described five years ago.

The country is long and narrow, running roughly 1,650 kilometres north to south. Most trips cover the two anchors (Hanoi in the north, Ho Chi Minh City in the south) plus one or two stops in between. Trying to see everything in two weeks is a mistake. Pick a half and do it properly.

Where to Stay

Hanoi

Hanoi is chaotic in the best possible way. The Old Quarter is where most travellers base themselves. Narrow streets named after the trades that originally operated there (Silk Street, Silver Street, Paper Street), crammed with motorbikes, street food vendors, and tiny beer corners where locals sit on plastic stools drinking bia hoi for 5,000 VND a glass. Hotels in the Old Quarter run $15 to 40 a night for solid mid-range. West Lake (Tay Ho) is quieter with a growing cafe and expat scene. Good if you want space to breathe. French Quarter around Hoan Kiem Lake has the grand colonial architecture and higher-end hotels starting around $50.

Ho Chi Minh City

Saigon (everyone still calls it Saigon) moves faster than Hanoi. Louder, more modern, more commercial. District 1 is the centre with most of the sights, restaurants, and nightlife. Hotels from $20 to 60 a night. District 3 is the local favourite. Quieter, better street food, and walkable to District 1. This is where the best Vietnamese coffee shops are. Bui Vien Street in District 1 is the backpacker strip. Fun for a night out but not where you want to sleep.

Other Bases

Hoi An is a small town on the central coast and one of the prettiest places in Vietnam. Lantern-lit streets, tailor shops where you can get custom suits made in 24 hours, and Banh Mi that people travel across the country for. Stay two to three nights minimum. Hotels from $12 to 35. Da Nang is 30 minutes from Hoi An with a proper beach and a growing food scene. Good if you want beach time without the resort feel. Sapa in the far north is the base for rice terrace trekking and homestays with Hmong communities. Cold in winter, stunning year round. Phong Nha in central Vietnam has some of the largest caves on earth including Son Doong. Worth the detour if you have time.

Things to Do

Hanoi and the North

Ha Long Bay is the big one. Thousands of limestone karsts rising out of emerald water. The two-day, one-night boat cruises are the standard format and worth the cost at $80 to 150 for mid-range. Avoid the cheapest boats. Bun cha on Ngo Sy Lien Street is the same spot Obama and Bourdain ate at. The food is legitimately excellent and costs about 50,000 VND. Train Street in the Old Quarter is a narrow alley where a real train passes through twice daily, centimetres from the cafe tables. Authorities keep trying to shut it down and locals keep reopening it. Go early. Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum and the Old Quarter walking tour cover the political history and French colonial architecture. The mausoleum is free but has strict dress codes and hours. Sapa trekking takes one to three days through terraced rice paddies with homestay accommodation in Hmong or Dao villages. March to May and September to November are the best months.

Ho Chi Minh City and the South

Cu Chi Tunnels are the underground network used during the war. The Ben Duoc site is less touristy than Ben Dinh. Tours run about $15 to 25 including transport. War Remnants Museum in District 1 is confronting and essential. Allow two hours. Mekong Delta day trip covers floating markets, coconut candy workshops, and river boat rides through narrow canals. Can Tho is the best base if you want to stay overnight and see the Cai Rang floating market at dawn. Ben Thanh Market is the main tourist market. Good for souvenirs but bargain hard. The night market outside is better for food. Phu Quoc Island off the southern coast has become Vietnam’s beach resort destination. Direct flights from Saigon, white sand beaches, and good snorkelling. Two to three nights is ideal.

Central Vietnam

Hoi An cooking classes start at the market where you buy ingredients with a local chef, then cook five or six dishes. About $25 to 35 and one of the best value activities in the country. Hoi An tailors can make a custom suit, dress, or jacket in 24 to 48 hours. Quality varies wildly. Yaly Couture and BeBe are consistently well reviewed. My Son Sanctuary is a complex of Hindu temples from the Champa kingdom, about an hour from Hoi An. Vietnam’s answer to Angkor Wat on a smaller scale. Hai Van Pass is the mountain road between Da Nang and Hue, made famous by Top Gear. You can ride it by motorbike or hire a driver. The views are worth it either way.

Getting Around

Domestic flights are cheap and fast. VietJet and Bamboo Airways run Hanoi to Ho Chi Minh City multiple times daily for $30 to 60 one way if booked ahead. Flights to Da Nang, Phu Quoc, and other regional airports are similarly affordable. This is the best option for covering long distances.

Overnight trains connect Hanoi to Hue, Da Nang, and Ho Chi Minh City. The Reunification Express runs the full north-south route in about 33 hours, but most people do shorter legs. Hanoi to Hue overnight is popular. Book a soft sleeper berth (four-bed cabin, around $25 to 35) for a comfortable ride. The train is slow but scenic and a genuine experience.

Grab is the main ride-hailing app and works well in every city. Motorbike rides are the cheapest option (10,000 to 30,000 VND for short trips). Car rides cost more but are useful for airport transfers and group travel.

Motorbike rental is common but Vietnam traffic is intense, especially in Hanoi and Saigon. Experienced riders will be fine. If you have never ridden in Southeast Asian traffic, stick to Grab bikes or try it first in a quieter town like Hoi An.

Crossing the street: This terrifies everyone on their first day. The trick is to walk slowly and steadily. Do not stop, do not run, do not make sudden moves. The motorbikes will flow around you. It works. Trust the process.

Best Time to Visit

Vietnam’s weather is complicated because the country is so long. The north and south have different seasons.

North (Hanoi, Sapa, Ha Long Bay): Best from October to April. Cool and dry. Summers are hot and wet. Sapa can get genuinely cold in December and January with temperatures near freezing.

Central (Hoi An, Da Nang, Hue): Best from February to August. The central coast gets hammered by typhoons and flooding from September to December. Avoid October and November specifically.

South (Ho Chi Minh City, Mekong Delta, Phu Quoc): Best from December to April (dry season). Rainy season runs May to November with heavy afternoon showers but warm temperatures year round.

The best window for a north-to-south trip is March to April when the weather overlaps favourably across all regions.

Budget Guide

Vietnam is one of the cheapest countries in Asia to travel. Your money goes a long way here. Daily costs in USD:

Cash is king in Vietnam. ATMs are common but many charge 20,000 to 50,000 VND per withdrawal. Cards are accepted at hotels and higher-end restaurants but not at street food stalls, markets, or smaller shops. Currency is Vietnamese Dong (VND), roughly 25,000 VND to 1 USD. The large numbers take a day to get used to.

Quick Tips

• Visa: Many nationalities now get 45 days visa-free. Others need an e-visa ($25, processed in three business days). Check before you fly.
• SIM card: Viettel or Mobifone SIMs at the airport cost about 100,000 to 200,000 VND for 30 days of data. Fast and reliable in cities.
• Coffee: Vietnamese coffee is strong, sweet, and served with condensed milk (ca phe sua da). Order it iced. It is addictive. Egg coffee (ca phe trung) in Hanoi is a must-try.
• Bargaining: Expected at markets. Start at a third of the asking price. Be friendly about it. Walking away is the most effective negotiation tool.
• Street food safety: Eat where the locals eat. High turnover means fresh food. If a stall is busy at lunch, the ingredients have not been sitting around. Look for crowds.
• Motorbike awareness: Sidewalks are used for parking and dining, so you will walk on the road constantly. Stay alert. Look both ways multiple times.
• Photography: Vietnam is absurdly photogenic. The best light is early morning when the streets are still waking up and the mist sits on the rivers.