Jordan

Jordan is a small country that punches absurdly above its weight. Petra alone would justify the trip. A 2,000-year-old Nabatean city carved directly into rose-red sandstone cliffs, it is one of those rare places that genuinely lives up to every photograph and every piece of hype you have ever seen. Walking through the narrow Siq canyon and seeing the Treasury emerge from the rock face is one of the most dramatic moments in travel.

But Jordan is far more than Petra. Wadi Rum is a vast desert of red sand, towering rock formations, and silence so deep it changes how you think. The Dead Sea is the lowest point on earth where you float effortlessly in water so salty nothing can live in it. Jerash has some of the best-preserved Roman ruins outside of Italy. Amman is a modern Middle Eastern capital with a thriving food scene, ancient ruins layered into the hillside, and a genuine energy that surprises most visitors who treat it as just a transit point.

The country is also one of the safest in the Middle East. Jordan has navigated regional instability while maintaining a stable, welcoming environment for tourists. Jordanian hospitality is legendary and genuine. You will be invited for tea by strangers. Shopkeepers will chat with you for twenty minutes without expecting a purchase. Bedouin camp hosts in Wadi Rum will make you feel like family. This warmth is not marketing, it is cultural.

Jordan is more expensive than Egypt but still affordable by Western standards. The Jordanian Dinar is a strong currency (roughly equal to the USD), which means prices feel comparable to what you would pay in a mid-range European city. The key to saving money is the Jordan Pass, which is one of the best travel passes anywhere in the world.

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When to go

Jordan has a desert climate with distinct seasons.

Spring (March to May) and autumn (September to November) are ideal. Temperatures are comfortable (20-28C/68-82F), rainfall is minimal, and conditions are perfect for hiking in Petra and exploring Wadi Rum. These are the most popular tourist seasons, so book accommodation and tours in advance, particularly for Petra and Wadi Rum camps.

Summer (June to August) is very hot. Amman and Petra regularly hit 35-40C (95-104F). Wadi Rum can exceed 40C. The Dead Sea area is brutally hot. Sightseeing in this heat is exhausting and limits what you can comfortably do. Aqaba on the Red Sea is an exception with sea breezes making it bearable.

Winter (December to February) is surprisingly cold. Amman can drop to near freezing with occasional snow. Petra and Wadi Rum get cold at night (down to 5C/41F or lower). Days are still pleasant for sightseeing (15-20C) but pack warm layers for evenings, especially if camping in the desert.

How much it costs

Jordan is not a budget destination in the way Egypt or Southeast Asia is. The Dinar is strong, entrance fees are steep (Petra alone is 50 JOD/$70 for one day), and tourist infrastructure is priced accordingly. However, the Jordan Pass changes the equation dramatically.

The Jordan Pass is essential. Available at jordanpass.jo, it costs 70-80 JOD ($99-113) depending on how many days you want at Petra. It includes your visa fee (40 JOD saving), entry to Petra, and entry to 40+ other sites including Jerash, Wadi Rum, the Amman Citadel, and more. You must stay at least three consecutive nights in Jordan for the visa waiver to apply. Buy it before you arrive and have it on your phone. For most visitors, the Jordan Pass saves $50-80 compared to paying individually.

Budget ($40-70 USD/day): Hostel dorms cost $10-20 per night. Street food (falafel, shawarma, hummus) costs $2-5. Local buses between cities cost $5-15. Bedouin camps in Wadi Rum with dinner and breakfast start around $40-60 per person. At this level you eat local food, use public transport, and camp rather than hotel. Comfortable but basic.

Mid-range ($80-150 USD/day): Three-star hotels and boutique guesthouses cost $40-80 per night. Restaurant meals run $10-20. Premium Wadi Rum camps with private tents and full board cost $60-120 per person. Guided tours and jeep trips add $30-60 per day. Rental cars cost $30-50 per day. At this level you travel very comfortably.

Comfortable ($200-400+ USD/day): Luxury Dead Sea resorts cost $150-300+ per night. Premium Wadi Rum bubble tents with clear ceilings for stargazing cost $150-300. Private guided tours, fine dining, and premium transfers fit here. The Kempinski at the Dead Sea and the various luxury desert camps offer genuinely special experiences.

Where to go

Petra is the reason most people come to Jordan and it deserves two full days minimum. Day one: walk the Siq (the narrow canyon entrance), see the Treasury, explore the Street of Facades, the Royal Tombs, and the Colonnaded Street. Day two: hike up to the Monastery (Ad-Deir), which is larger than the Treasury and reached by climbing roughly 800 steps. The views from the top are extraordinary. If you have a third day, the Al-Kubtha trail offers a high viewpoint looking down at the Treasury from above. Start early (gates open at 6am) to beat the heat and the tour groups. The site is vast: most visitors only see about 15% of it.

Little Petra (Siq al-Barid) is 13km north of Petra and free to enter. A smaller Nabatean site with carved facades and ancient frescoes. Far fewer tourists and worth an hour or two.

Wadi Rum is the desert. Red sand stretching to the horizon, sandstone arches, rock bridges, and a silence that is almost physical. Private vehicles are not allowed past Wadi Rum Village, so you explore by 4×4 jeep tour with a Bedouin guide. Half-day tours ($30-50 per person) cover the main sites. Full-day tours go deeper. Staying overnight in a Bedouin camp is essential: the desert at sunset and the stars at night are the real highlight, not the daytime sightseeing. Camp options range from basic (mattress in a tent, shared facilities, $40) to luxury bubble domes ($150-300).

The Dead Sea is the lowest point on earth at roughly 430 metres below sea level. The water is roughly ten times saltier than the ocean, which means you float effortlessly whether you try to or not. The experience is genuinely bizarre and fun. Coat yourself in the mineral-rich mud, float on your back, and take the obligatory photo of reading a book while floating. Access is either through a resort (day passes typically $15-30 or included with hotel stays) or at the public Amman Beach ($20). The Dead Sea is shrinking rapidly due to water diversion, making this a destination that will not exist in its current form forever.

Amman is underrated. Most visitors spend one night as a transit point and miss the city’s appeal. The Citadel has Roman, Byzantine, and Umayyad ruins with panoramic views. The Roman Theatre downtown seats 6,000 and is remarkably well-preserved. Rainbow Street is the heart of the city’s cafe and restaurant scene. The food in Amman is excellent: mansaf (lamb in fermented yoghurt over rice) is the national dish. The downtown area around Al-Balad is chaotic, authentic, and full of the best cheap food in the country. Two days is ideal.

Jerash is 50km north of Amman and has some of the best-preserved Roman provincial ruins in the world. The Oval Plaza, the Colonnaded Street, the temples, and the theatres are extraordinary and far less crowded than comparable sites in Rome or Turkey. Half a day is enough. Included in the Jordan Pass.

Madaba and Mount Nebo are easy day trips from Amman. Madaba has a famous 6th-century mosaic map of the Holy Land on the floor of St. George’s Church. Mount Nebo is the biblical site where Moses is said to have seen the Promised Land. The views across the Dead Sea and into Israel are spectacular on clear days. Both included in the Jordan Pass.

Aqaba on the Red Sea has diving and snorkelling in warm, clear water. It is Jordan’s only coastal city and a good place to unwind after the desert. The coral reefs here are healthy and accessible directly from shore.

What to skip

Petra by Night (the candlelit evening event) gets mixed reviews. The walk through the Siq lit by candles is atmospheric but the actual show at the Treasury involves sitting on the ground for 30-45 minutes listening to music and watching candles. Many visitors find it anticlimactic for the price ($17). If you go, manage expectations accordingly.

Trying to see Petra in a single day. You will see the Treasury and a fraction of the site, spend most of your time walking the 1.2km Siq in and out, and miss the Monastery entirely. Two days minimum. Three if you like hiking.

Renting a car unless you are confident driving in the Middle East. Jordanian driving can be aggressive, road signage is inconsistent, and navigation in cities is chaotic. Between the JETT bus, shared minibuses, and arranged transfers, most visitors manage perfectly without a car.

The “free” camel rides at Petra. Nothing is free. You will be asked for money at the end. If you want a camel ride, agree on the price clearly before getting on.

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Must-do experiences

Walk through the Siq to the Treasury at Petra. Arrive at 6am when the gates open. The narrow canyon, the changing light on the rock, and the moment the Treasury reveals itself through the gap is one of the most dramatic experiences in all of travel.

Sleep in Wadi Rum. The desert at night is transformative. The stars are extraordinary (no light pollution), the silence is absolute, and a Bedouin-cooked zarb dinner (meat and vegetables buried in the sand over hot coals) is unforgettable. Do not skip the overnight. A day trip to Wadi Rum misses the point entirely.

Float in the Dead Sea. It is exactly as strange and enjoyable as everyone says. The mud is genuinely good for your skin. Do not shave beforehand (the salt stings any cut) and do not get the water in your eyes.

Hike to the Monastery at Petra. The 800-step climb is the best workout in Jordan. The Monastery itself is larger and arguably more impressive than the Treasury, and the viewpoint beyond it looking over the Wadi Araba valley is stunning.

Eat mansaf in Amman. Jordan’s national dish is lamb slow-cooked in a sauce of fermented dried yoghurt (jameed), served over rice with almonds and pine nuts. It is traditionally eaten with the right hand from a communal platter. Find a local restaurant rather than a tourist one for the authentic experience.

Practical tips

Visa: Most nationalities receive a visa on arrival at Queen Alia International Airport in Amman for 40 JOD ($56). This fee is waived if you have a Jordan Pass and stay at least three consecutive nights. Some nationalities can enter visa-free through Aqaba (ASEZA free zone). US citizens now need to check if additional requirements apply. Check jordanpass.jo for the latest details.

Currency: Jordanian Dinar (JOD), pegged to the USD at approximately 1 JOD = $1.41. This is a strong currency, so Jordan feels more expensive than neighbouring Egypt. ATMs available in cities. Credit cards accepted at hotels and larger restaurants. Smaller shops, street food, taxis, and desert camps often need cash. Carry Dinars for daily spending.

Transport: JETT buses run reliable, scheduled services between Amman, Petra (Wadi Musa), Aqaba, and the Dead Sea. Local minibuses are cheaper but less predictable (they leave when full, not on a schedule). No trains exist in Jordan. Internal flights are possible but rarely necessary given the short distances. Uber works in Amman. For the desert and remote areas, arranged transfers through hotels or tour operators are the norm.

Safety: Jordan is one of the safest countries in the Middle East. Violent crime against tourists is extremely rare. Scams are less prevalent than in Egypt. Jordanians are genuinely friendly and helpful. Standard travel precautions apply. The border areas with Syria and Iraq have advisories, but tourist areas (Amman, Petra, Wadi Rum, Dead Sea, Aqaba) are all safe.

Culture: Jordan is a moderate Muslim country. Dress modestly, particularly when visiting mosques or rural areas (cover shoulders and knees). Alcohol is available in hotels, restaurants, and bars in Amman, Aqaba, and tourist areas but is expensive due to taxes. During Ramadan, be respectful and avoid eating in public during daylight hours.

Connectivity: WiFi available in hotels and cafes. Mobile coverage is good on the main roads and in cities. Wadi Rum has limited coverage (some camps have WiFi, many do not). Prepaid SIM cards from Zain or Orange are cheap and available at the airport.

Planning your trip

1 week (the classic): Amman (2 days including Citadel, downtown, food), drive to Jerash (half day), drive the King’s Highway to Petra via Madaba and Mount Nebo (1 day), Petra (2 days), Wadi Rum (1-2 nights with overnight camp). This is the essential Jordan itinerary and seven days is the perfect length.

10 days: The classic route above plus Dead Sea (2 days for floating, spa, relaxation) and Aqaba (1-2 days for Red Sea diving or beach). This adds the water elements that complement the desert and ruins.

2 weeks: Slow down. Spend three days in Petra to hike the lesser-known trails. Add an extra night in Wadi Rum with a full-day jeep tour into the deeper desert. Explore the eastern desert castles near Amman. Walk sections of the Jordan Trail (a long-distance hiking route from north to south).

Combining with neighbours: Jordan pairs perfectly with Egypt (fly Amman to Cairo, or cross overland at Aqaba/Taba). An Egypt-Jordan combination (Cairo, Luxor, Aswan, then Petra, Wadi Rum, Dead Sea) is one of the best two-country itineraries in the world. Israel is accessible via the King Hussein/Allenby Bridge or the Wadi Araba/Yitzhak Rabin crossing near Aqaba.

More destinations like Jordan

If Jordan’s mix of ancient history and natural landscapes appeals to you, Egypt is the natural companion with comparable history at lower prices but more tourist hassle. Turkey offers a similar range of ruins, landscapes, and hospitality with even more variety. Israel shares borders and history but at a higher price point. For the desert experience specifically, Oman and Morocco offer similar Bedouin culture and dramatic landscapes.

Use our search tools to compare flights and hotels across all of these destinations.

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