Ireland

Ireland is smaller than most people think. You can drive coast to coast in about 4 hours. But what’s packed into that small space is extraordinary. Cliffs that drop straight into the Atlantic, pubs with live traditional music every night of the week, ruins that predate Stonehenge, and a culture of storytelling and hospitality that makes you feel like you’ve been adopted by every person you meet.

The two main draws are Dublin (a proper capital city with history, food, and nightlife) and the west coast (the Wild Atlantic Way, Cliffs of Moher, Galway, Connemara, and the Ring of Kerry). Most visitors do both and they’re right to. Dublin is compact and walkable. The countryside is best by car.

Ireland is not cheap but it’s good value compared to London or Scandinavia. A pint of Guinness in a local pub costs $5-6. A full Irish breakfast at a B&B is often included with your room. And the wild Atlantic coastline is free to drive, walk, and stare at.

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When to go

May through September is the best window. June has the longest days (light until 10:30pm in the north). July and August are warmest but also the busiest for tourists, especially on the west coast. September is excellent with smaller crowds and autumn light.

March around St. Patrick’s Day (March 17) is festive but cold and wet. The parades and atmosphere are fun if you’re specifically there for that.

October through February is cold, dark, and rainy. Daylight hours are short (sunset at 4:30pm in December). But accommodation is cheap, pubs are cosy, and you’ll have the big tourist sites to yourself.

Rain is possible any day of the year. Pack a waterproof jacket regardless of when you visit. The weather can change multiple times in a single day.

What it actually costs

Ireland is mid-to-high cost for Europe. Similar to the UK, cheaper than Scandinavia. All prices in USD.

Budget ($60-100 USD/day per person) Hostels ($20-35/night), pub grub and chipper (fish and chips) meals ($8-12), city buses and regional buses ($5-15), free walking and coastal paths.

Mid-range ($100-220 USD/day per person) B&Bs and guesthouses ($70-140/night for a double, often with breakfast included), restaurant meals ($15-25), rental car ($35-60/day), pub sessions with live music (free to listen, pay for your pints).

Comfortable ($220-350+ USD/day per person) Castle hotels, fine dining, guided tours, spa retreats, golf. Ireland has some spectacular luxury accommodation in converted castles and country houses.

Rental car is essential for the countryside. Roads are narrow but well-maintained. Drive on the left. Book the smallest car available because some rural roads are barely two cars wide.

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Where to go

Dublin (2-3 days). Trinity College and the Book of Kells, Temple Bar (touristy but worth one evening), the Guinness Storehouse, Kilmainham Gaol, and the food scene in areas like Stoneybatter and Phibsborough. The best pubs for live trad music are NOT in Temple Bar. Ask a local.

Galway (2-3 days). The cultural capital of the west. Colourful streets, traditional music in every pub, incredible seafood, and a youthful energy from the university. Base yourself here for day trips to the Cliffs of Moher, the Aran Islands, and Connemara.

Cliffs of Moher (half day from Galway). 214m cliffs dropping into the Atlantic. One of the most visited natural attractions in Europe and it’s obvious why. Go early morning or late afternoon to avoid the bus tour crowds. The coastal walk north of the visitor centre is less crowded and arguably more dramatic.

Ring of Kerry (1-2 days driving loop from Killarney). A 179km loop through some of the most scenic coastline in Ireland. Killarney National Park, Skellig Michael viewpoint, Kenmare, and the Gap of Dunloe. Drive anti-clockwise (most tour buses go clockwise so you’ll have less traffic).

Dingle Peninsula (1-2 days). Quieter and arguably more beautiful than the Ring of Kerry. The town of Dingle is small, colourful, and has excellent seafood pubs. The Slea Head Drive is one of the best coastal drives in Europe.

Belfast and the Causeway Coast (2-3 days). Northern Ireland (which uses GBP, not EUR) has the Giant’s Causeway, the Titanic Museum in Belfast, the Dark Hedges (from Game of Thrones), and the Carrick-a-Rede rope bridge. Belfast is an underrated city with a fascinating recent history, great food, and cheaper prices than Dublin.

The Burren (1 day from Galway). A lunar landscape of limestone karst on the west coast. Wildflowers grow in the cracks of the rock. It’s unlike anywhere else in Ireland. Free to explore on foot.

What to skip

Temple Bar every night. Go once for the atmosphere. But the drinks are 30-40% more expensive than pubs two blocks away and the music is aimed at tourists. Ask locals for their favourite trad session spots.

The Blarney Stone. Lying on your back and kissing a rock while someone holds your legs over a drop. It’s a long queue for a brief and awkward moment. The Blarney Castle grounds are nice but the stone itself is overhyped.

Organised “Irish experience” dinner shows. Skip the packaged cultural shows and go to a real pub trad session instead. The music is better, the atmosphere is genuine, and it’s free.

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Must-do experiences

Live trad music in a real pub. Not a tourist pub. A real one where locals go. Galway, Doolin, Dingle, and Ennis are the best towns for it. Most sessions start around 9:30pm and you don’t need to book. Just walk in, get a pint, and listen.

Drive the Wild Atlantic Way. 2,500km of coastal road from Donegal to Cork. You don’t need to do the whole thing. Pick a section (the west coast from Galway to Dingle is the best concentrated stretch) and take your time.

Visit the Aran Islands. A ferry from Galway or Doolin to Inis Mor (the largest island). Stone walls, ancient forts, Irish-speaking locals, and no cars. Rent a bike and cycle the island. It feels like stepping back in time.

Eat fresh oysters in Galway. The Galway International Oyster Festival is in September, but oysters are available year-round. $12-15 for a half dozen with a pint of Guinness on the side. Best combination in Ireland.

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Practical tips

The Republic of Ireland uses the Euro (EUR). Northern Ireland uses the British Pound (GBP). Cards accepted almost everywhere in both. Some rural pubs and markets are cash-preferred.

Citizens of the US, UK, Canada, Australia, New Zealand, and most EU countries do not need a visa for Ireland for stays under 90 days.

Ireland is NOT in the Schengen zone. If you’re combining Ireland with mainland Europe, check whether you need separate entry permissions.

Tipping is not required but 10% at sit-down restaurants is appreciated. Pubs with table service sometimes get a small tip. Counter service pubs do not.

Driving is on the left. Roads are narrower than you expect, especially in the countryside. Wing mirrors will come within centimetres of hedgerows and stone walls on rural lanes. A small car is genuinely important.

Planning your trip

1 week Dublin and the west: Dublin (3 nights), Galway (2 nights), Dingle (2 nights). Cliffs of Moher day trip from Galway.

10 days full circuit: Dublin (2), Killarney (2), Ring of Kerry drive, Dingle (2), Galway (2), Aran Islands day trip, Belfast (2).

1 week Northern Ireland and west coast: Belfast (2), Giant’s Causeway and Causeway Coast (1), Galway (2), Cliffs of Moher, Dingle (2).

Book your trip

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More destinations from travlperks: For a similar green countryside vibe, check out England. For European culture at lower prices, see Portugal. For something completely different, try our Japan or Sri Lanka guides.